All gas appliances repaired – Sensible pricing, and quality parts. Give us a call on 01179 506 143 or 07900 570 888 for a friendly chat on how we can help you.

 

We can repair most boilers within the hour so no need to panic!

2016 rates

£75 fixed for the first hour  
£45 fixed for following hours*

*Following hours charged at 15 minute intervals.

Quality parts. We have an account with PHC in the heart of Bristol. Stocking most boiler parts on the shelf means we can repair most of our boilers the same day.

 

 

Low system pressure?

WHBC07

Boiler Repair – Combi boilers have a pressure gauge, usually found on the front face of the unit. This is linked to the heating system and needs to be set to 1.1 bar cold and will normally rise to no more than 2 bar during every day use of the heating circuit.

We will set the pressure to 1.1 bar when cold on commissioning our boilers using a filling loop. The filling loop connects an otherwise sealed heating system to a source of water, i.e. your incoming water supply.

On some boiler’s such as the Worcester 24 /28 junior, Worcester RSF and CDI, Vaillant eco Tec pros, plus, eco MAX etc, when the pressure drops below 0.5 bar, a pressure sensing switch (LPS) will cause the boiler to shut down.

Re-pressurising via the filling loop and re-setting the boiler will be the remedy.

  • Pressure must be kept between 1 and 2 bar
  • Remember, if you bleed your radiators you must top up the system via the filling loop.
  • Loss of pressure can be caused by the safety valve operating, venting radiators, a leak on a valve, pump, joint etc…

If this problem persists and you need tools to open the boiler cover, it’s best to call us and book in a repair.

 

PRVWater dripping from a copper pipe sticking out of your wall?

Boiler Repair - This copper pipe is linked to a pressure relief valve within the boiler. Its job is to release pressure in the system. This valve will operate if;

  • Your expansion vessel has lost its charge
  • Your expansion vessel is perforated
  • You have over pressurized your boiler
  • Your heat exchanger has internally cracked

These valves have a tendency to continue to pass water even when normal pressure has been set. We would normally always change these when re-charging or replacing a vessel that’s forced the pressure relief valve to operate.

If this problem persists and you need tools to open the boiler cover, it’s best to call us and book in a repair

 

Hot water goes from hot to cold and is never as hot as it used to be..?

Boiler Repair - This can be a major repair as it requires a boiler drain down and dismantling of allot of pipe work within the boiler

This is a sign of a secondary heat exchanger being blocked internally with scale deposits from the hot water side or sludge from the heating side.

Heat exchanger

Here in Bristol we suffer from this problem more so due to high lime scale deposits in our water. We can see it manifest inside our kettles when we boil water.

In a combi boiler the plate to plate heat exchanger has very small water ways. Small for a reason, as the water is heated instantaneously; it goes without saying that a small volume of water will be heated faster than a large volume of water. Good for efficiency? Yes. But no good once scaled or blocked.

If you have a Vaillant boiler especially with the black hoses inside then you are doubly done, chances are your suffering from Valiant’s effort to reduce the sound of their boiler by installing rubber buffer pipes that will block, harden up and cake up the filter in the manifold and the plate to plate.

These puppies’ have a habit of popping or leaking depending on the degree of blocking. The remedy in these cases will be to replace or de-scale the heat exchanger, remove the filter and clean, clean the rubber tubes or replace and put it all back together.

We can clean your heat exchanger and fit a scale reducer at a very competitive price.

If this problem persists and you need tools to open the boiler cover, it’s best to call us and book in a repair

 

Fan not working?

fan

Boiler Repair - For us this is a pretty fast repair, however the fans can be as much as 180.00 to buy.

You will normally have noticed an increase of sound coming from your boiler prior to the boiler locking out. As soon as a fan fails in a fan assisted boiler a safety device fails to trigger a micro switch (APS) and the boiler locks out.

The fan not working will prevent ignition and gas flow. We confirm the fan has failed by checking for 240 v ac at the terminals to the coil. If it’s there then we know the pcb is allowing electric to pass, thus the fail must be at the fan.

It’s best to call us and book in a repair

Pump not working?

PUMPBoiler Repair - If the manufacture allows just the pump head to be replaced then it’s a fairly easy repair. The body is sometimes very stiff to remove due to old nuts holding firm.

You will know when the pump has failed due to load knocks and bangs as the boiler reaches boiling point. As the boiler can’t circulate the heated water away from itself, the water just sits there and heats up.

Eventually the boiler will lock out under instruction from the overheat stat braking continuity.

In some set ups the boiler won’t lock out due to a low heat on the water. What you will typically see here is radiators upstairs warming slowly, but radiators downstairs cold to the touch.

It’s best to call us and book in a repair

 

No power to the boiler at all?FUSED SPUR

Boiler Repair - This could be a blown 3 amp fuse in the fused spur next to the boiler, or a blown 2 amp, 1.5 amp, 1.25 amp. 1 amp fuse inside of the boiler. Or less commonly a PCB board could have blown.

If this problem persists and you need tools to open the boiler cover, it’s best to call us and book in a repair

We had been asked to investigate a Worcester 24 RSF boiler;

SYMPTOM – Water discharging down the outside wall and boiler loosing pressure.

ON ARRIVAL - We noticed the system pressure had fallen. The home owner  explained to us that he would “top up”
the system using the filling loop, only to find after a period of time, the pressure had gone and that the pipe outside was dripping.

POSSIBLE CAUSE - Possible internal expansion vessel was at fault? Or the secondary heat exchanger was fractured?

INVESTIGATION - We decided to check the expansion vessel first by gaining access to the Schroeder  valve, depressing and testing for water. Water was confirmed which proved that the internal diaphragm was split or porous.

EFFECT – The pressure relief valve had operated because the system pressure within the sealed system had increased past its 3 bar pressure setting limit. By operating it released / relieved the excess pressure within the sealed system. If the expansion vessel was functioning correctly the expanded water (creating increased pressure) would be taken up within the expansion vessel.

CAUSE – Faulty expansion vessel.

CURE – Replacement of the faulty expansion vessel.

 

We had been asked to investigate a vaillant eco TEC plus 831;

SYMPTOM - Had no hot water or heating.

ON ARRIVAL - At the premises in Clifton we confirmed that the boiler was indeed not operating as it should be. We noticed that the power was not being shown to the boiler via the LED’s within the front panel.

POSSIBLE CAUSE - At this point the cause could be a problem with the external wiring, the 3 amp fuse in the switched spur, the 230v power supply to the boiler, the primary PCB board, the user’s PCB board, the fuse within the PCB board etc…

INVESTIGATION - We decided to start the fault finding process by confirming power to the switched spur and in turn power to the boiler. This was confirmed by using the multi meter set to AC with probes across live and neutral into the terminal unit of the boiler. With power in confirmed, continuity was checked through the internal fuse.

The next port of call for the flow of electrical current was the PCB’S component parts. This flow triggers a specific order of operation for the pump, fan, and ignition sequence. A circuit is also created via the PCB to the on/off/switch on the users control PCB.

We checked for 230v across the on/off switch terminals. Confirmed. To rule out a fault with the on/off/ switch, we linked the switch out of the circuit by means of a temporary connection, thus by-passing a potentially faulty external component. This made no difference to the power up problem the boiler was suffering from.

The fault finding logic now points to the primary PCB board’s internal workings. We have confirmed power to the unit and through the unit to the ON/OFF switch. Have proved the switch is not at fault by linking it out.

With all manufacturers instructing engineers not to attempt to repair PCB’s, a new board was the remedy.

The fault finding procedure is not over yet though. We identified the PCB as faulty. Was the failure of the PCB a result of a local fault?  I.e., a potentiometer fault on the board? Or was it caused by an external fault such as a short circuiting pump, fan, or gas valve?

If the fault on the Printed circuit board (PCB) was caused by a pump, fan, or gas valve short circuit then as soon as we replace the old for new…..zap…..two PCB boards made obsolete.

So a resistance test in ohms using the multi meter was carried out across, fan, pump, and gas valve. These specific values are obtained via the manufacturers technical help line for qualified gas safe engineers or on their training days.
All fine so we installed the new board with confidence.

EFFECT- No power being distributed to boiler components = no power = not heat.
CAUSE – Faulty PCB.
CURE – Replacing PCB.

 

Could the fault be something other than my boiler?

Boiler Repair - It’s possible that external heating controls could play a part, or be solely responsible for no heating, no hot water, or no heating and hot water. If you have an open vent system or a system boiler connected to a cylinder, its possible a valve is either stuck or inactive due to wear and tear.

Above is an example of a two port valve we came across that had failed to open due to a synchronistic  motor failing. The fault was identified by using the multi meter to follow the route of electricity.

We had power to the motor, so we confirmed the thermostat was switching. The micro switch was manually pressed on the valve, which in turn fired up the pump and boiler producing heat. We removed the old synchronistic motor, and replaced with a new one.

It’s important to remember that this whole valve could have been identified as faulty and replaced, fixing the problem. However the cost of a synchronistic motor is around 20.00, the price of an actuator head is around 50.00, and the cost of the whole valve plus a drain down could add anything up to 150.00 to the invoice.

Identifying the fault accurately the first time is what separates us heating engineers from plumbers.

It’s best to call us and book in a repair

 

 

 If you live in or around Bristol and are looking for a fair quotation then call us now on 0117 9506 143 or 07900 570 888.

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